Rediscovering Paris

Today, we find ourselves on a train leaving our beloved Paris. It was a wonderful, if short visit, during which we visited some spots that were the favorites from our April in Paris.

We arrived, fatigued but not totally worn from the long journey. Not totally worn because we ended up in first class across the ocean. Let me tell you, first class on an A330 is something to behold. Jess and I never want to fly international coach again!1

When you fly to Europe, you tend to land bright and early in the morning.2 Our arrival had us there at 7:30, with a bit of time to get into Paris proper and to the hotel, we still had about 4 hours until we could possibly get a room. So, homeless and zombie-like, we walked the streets and parks through Le Marais to Ile Saint Louis and Ile de la Cité– stopping, of course, for a visit to Notre Dame and the park at Pont Neuf– to eventually arrive at the Musée D’Orsay, my favorite museum. There, we spent time being zombie-like art aficionados.

After leaving the Orsay, we were really hungry and remembered a small cafe at Tuileries, the large park in front of the Louvre. This was actually when it really hit me that we’d just flown into Paris and were navigating from our memory of “living” there! Lunch was followed by a return by metro to the hotel and a much too short nap. We then woke up, still groggy but ready to be troopers, to meet with Jessica’s brother Mike and his wife Sara. They are also visiting Paris, and for the same reason, so we walked around a bit with them, and had dinner in Le Marais. Then Jess and I were going to pass out, so, early as it was, we went home to crawl into bed.

The next morning we did much the same thing: walking around and drinking in our memories of Paris. It’s an odd but wholly welcome feeling to walk around in Paris and know our way around, know what we want to see, and how to get there almost without thinking. It almost felt like we were walking around a city that was home, but just hasn’t been so for a while.

Le Marais to La Seine, Champs Elysais to the Eiffel Tower, finally we doubled back to the famed Rue Cler to buy some provisions, both for lunch and to take to Mike and Sara’s apartment for appetizers later on. It was the fromagerie for a selection of cheeses, the charcuterie for a bit of sausage, the boulangerie for some baguettes and a baguette sandwich, then to the park in front of the tower to gaze at Jessica’s Most Beautiful Thing In The World while we ate lunch. Surprisingly, we did not go up to the top. The line was long, and– still jetlagged– our time before collapsing was short. So, again zombie-like, we crawled back into bed for a nap.

That evening, we returned to the Left Back to meet Mike and Sara and spend some time in their lovely Paris flat eating cheese and bread, drinking wine, and chatting. Then, it was time for dinner, so we headed to a tiny restaurant called La Grotte for a wonderful dinner.

This morning was our “fin de Paris,” and we decided that the best thing to do would be to wake up early and head straight back to the top of the Eiffel Tower! After that, we had only a few minutes to check out, but a few hours for the train, so we left the luggage at the hotel and picked up a few provisions– namely macaroons for Jess, these amazing chocolate hazelnut candies3, a seven bottles of great French wine, including a few from Jura4, and Jess went to an upscale perfumery to buy some new scents.

Checkout, shopping, luggage, metro, train station… farewell Paris, we won’t see you again soon enough.

…next stop Deutchland!!

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  1. we will, of course, but we don’t WANT to!! []
  2. Of course, it’s the middle of the night as far as your body’s concerned []
  3. I’m not allowed to say how much we spent on that! []
  4. and we spent less on wine than we did on chocolate! []

And So It Begins! Another Adventure!

And so it begins again.

It’s 7pm in the evening, we’re packed, the house has a sitter, our work is all taken care of, every base is covered…

and we’re freaking out, as normal, not quiet ready to leave on another adventure. Tomorrow, we fly back to Paris, City of Dreams. Unbelieving that it is already November, and we left on the final day of April from our month-long stay in paradise. 7 months can go by so quick.

We return for two short days, once again to walk the streets of Le Marais, to visit our beloved Ile Saint Louis, to sit together and bask in the dream of our love as we sit, ebullient in wine, watching the Seine drift by at the park at Pont Neuf.

But life must go on. We cannot live in our memories of a Paris spring lost.

We are vikings of winter! Come to ravage the great body of lady travel!

And so, after two days in beautiful Paris, we depart by train to Strasbourg, there to cross the border into my beloved Deutschland for this, our next great adventure! Vikings are We!

Our goal, the Viking cruise vessel leaving from Nuremburg and drifting downstream to Budapest, Hungary. Along the way, we stop every day to descend upon the locals, pillaging their Christmas markets, drinking their glüwein, and ravaging their women!

(well, I’ll at least be ravaging my woman, but I’m going to do it viking-style!)

Our vessel departs on this plunderous journey some three days following our departure from Paris. Across the border from Strasbourg is the famed German city of Baden-Baden, where we will bath and be massaged in Teutonic splendor. From there it is a two and a half hour drive to Nuremburg, so the next two days will see us getting as lost as humanly possible in wonderful winter Bavaria.

After reaching Nuremburg, we have 10 days on the river visiting Christmas markets in Germany and Austria. Our goal, to be the best vikings we can!

Posts will follow here detailing our viking plunder. Stay tuned!

Under Paris

A small portion of the line

Today, we made a trip to The Catacombs, the 180 miles of tunnels that criss-cross the land beneath Paris like mole holes under a prosperous farmer’s garden. Most of them are off limits, provenance of the IGC, the Inspection Général des Carrières– basically a Ministry of Quarries, but one mile or so is open to the public. Four hundred people at a time are allowed, for a mere 8€ per person, to traverse a portion of Paris’ famed underground caverns. Continue reading

L’Orangerie

Just a couple images from Monet’s Lily’s at L’Orangerie.

It’s seriously not possible to illustrate how large these pieces are, nor how beautiful. Actually, when you first look at them, you think “eh… so, what’s for dinner?”

Then, after a couple minutes you realize that, yes, this is possibly the one of the most incredible things you’ve ever seen.

Just a couple pics, but nothing could really do justice to what we’re looking at.

Le Musèe Rodin

This photo gallery is much larger than most, because it is mostly a photo tour of the Rodin museum for my brother in law, not so much an exercise in composition, lighting, etc. A bunch of these pictures were taken on automatic, just because I was getting a bit burnt out on composing photographs and being at a gallery. Still, some are actually composed with thought, even if I couldn’t pull off the composition as well as I’d thought. Continue reading

Le Pantheon and Notre Dame

Another gallery from our trip today to Le Pantheon and Notre Dame.

I find that I’m getting a bit bored with the same composition, these are much of the same as I’ve been taking before- still trying to figure out exposure, focus, and composition. I’ve been trying to sneak some shots of people though, a couple are here. There are some silly ones of Jess, too, including one where we found a huge hunk of cheese just sitting in the street. A couple shots that I actually like are the one in the bookstore with Jess in the background, and the Gargoyle outside Notre Dame. The knocker is on one of the doors to Notre Dame, a shot I want to go back for because it didn’t work out as well as I’d hoped (need a more central focus). Continue reading

A Nice Lunch

Yesterday, I worked basically a whole day, but Jess and I went out to lunch at Ma Bourgogne. It was wonderful. Ma Bourgogne is a restaurant right on the Plaçe des Vosges, the park where Victor Hugo lived when he wrote Les Misérables. We had an amazing sheep’s milk goat cheese, escargot (in the shell, something you don’t see across the pond), and salad. On the way home, we stopped at a patisserie for desert. Here are some images from that wonderful lunch, including a great one of Jess, and one that Jess took of our dessert.

Les Parisiens gentils

I wanted to make a quick post about Parisians: Those people world famous for their rudeness and hatred of anyone who lives outside of their fair city, let alone their country. I want to say something about Parisians that they may not like:

They are really nice.

We’ve been here a week, so by now we have had as much of them as any passing traveler would have, so I figure we have a right to call our viewpoint as valid as anyone’s. I have one thing to say about Parisians: They are no more rude than anyone else, and for the most part have been friendlier than people in every other big city I’ve ever been to.1 Continue reading

  1. For the record: Portland doesn’t count as a big city– anyone saying so would be fooling themselves []

A Week In Review

This morning marks our one week point in Paris, a good time, I thought, for a bit of contemplation. I’ve been meaning to write a bit about how I managed to pull this off, but I think that’s a better post with a wee bit of perspective.

So far, we’ve walked all around our neighborhood (the 3rd Arrondissment) and Le Marais, following in many of the footsteps of the French Revolutions, while visiting Plaçe de Vosges, Victor Hugo’s house, and the Bastille. We’ve been lost and found our way back. We’ve been to The Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, the Left Bank, the Champs Elysses, the Arc de Triumphe, Montemartre, Bois de Vincennes… Continue reading

The Most Beautiful Thing in The World, Part II

We decided to do something a little different today.

Maybe the second most beautiful thing

For the first part of this week, I’ve been working a few hours in the morning, and then we’d spend the afternoon and evening out running around. Today, we decided to head out bright and early to see the Eiffel Tower, hit the lines before the bulk of the crowds, and then come back and work in the afternoon/evening.

While there, of course, I took some nice pictures of the most beautiful thing in the world, as well as a few of the Eiffel Tower. (Jessica actually took that one on the left as we were walking through the Trocadero). Continue reading